Cutting for Certificates Or Cutting the Profit

A review on Indian Diamond Manufacturing

by Janak A. Mistry, Lexus SoftMac, India

janakmistry@hotmail.com

What India Manufactures?
India used to specialize in low quality rough manufacturing. With the employment of modern technology, machinery and technique, it has been established that Indian manufacturers can handle a large variety of goods.

Planning and rough allocation on automatic planning machines / scanners:
Indian Manufacturers employ around 2000 automatic planning machines / scanners, many of which are used, round the clock. The cutting labs (for allocation), more predominantly used, are based on AGS and GIA (advocated in their training Manuals).

Though GIA do not grade Cut Class in their Certificates, the parameters advocated by GIA in their training course content is followed by many diamond manufacturers today. According to these parameters, during allocation (for E-VG), the Bottom angle is restricted to vary between 40.7° to 41° and crown angle between 34° to 35°. Similarly if AGS labs are followed, for AGS 0, the pavilion angle is restricted between 40.2° to 41.2° and crown angle between 33.7° to 35.8°.

Many combinations in these labs will not result in best light return, but stones cut to this parameters will result in better paper certificate. Important issue here is that, their would have been various other combination of parameters which would have resulted in better light return / brilliance / fire, at the same time would have resulted in better yield, a win-win situation, both for the end client and the manufacturer.

With the dictating part played by these planners in rough allocation, many a times a lot of energy is put in loosing weight rather then optimizing recovery, both, the brilliance and the profit. I have seen factories employing more than 12 such rough scanners and processing 6000 stones in a day, in 24 hours. See the piece parcels, and every stone is demanded the same cut. At the end of the day, what will be its reflection in manufacturer's balance sheet? Will this make the buyer happy?

What part should grading laboratories play?
It is important that the laboratories, which is the guiding force, controlling the manufacturers, should publish more scientific data, which can be used by this allocation scanners, resulting in win-win situation, both for the end client as well as the manufacturers.

Thank you.